Should I use an external
transmission cooler in conjunction with the oil cooler supplied in the
radiator?
Answer:
Unless operating in an environment where the outside temperature is below
0°F, you should cap off the radiator cooler line openings and run your
cooler lines directly to a new cooler mounted in front of the radiator.
This allows the transmission to have its own cooling system and doesn't
allow the engine water temperature to heat the fluid.
What is the correct size
cooler for my application?
Answer:
Unlike a lot of items you buy for your vehicle, bigger is predominately
better when it comes to transmission coolers. The answer would be as big
as you can get or to run multiple coolers in series, again staying away
from the factory radiator cooler lines.
Where should I mount a
transmission cooler?
Answer: TCI® highly recommends mounting your external transmission oil cooler in
front of the radiator. This allows for adequate airflow. If this is not
possible then you should mount it in a location where the cooler can
receive airflow. In extremely tight quarters, you may also mount the
cooler and build an air dam that would allow the cooler to have air pass
through it.
What type of clearance
should I have between the torque converter and flexplate before pulling
the converter forward and bolting it to flexplate?
Answer:
You should have 1/8" (.125") to 3/16" (.1875")
between the torque converter and flexplate before pulling the
converter forward and bolting it to flexplate.
Is there an ideal way to
measure the converter and transmission outside the car to make sure you
should have the proper clearance between the converter and the flex plate
before installation?
Answer:
Yes, you can use a straight edge, laying it across the face of the bell
housing. (Engine side) Then with the converter installed in
transmission, take a ruler and measure the distance from the straight edge
down to the mounting pad of the converter. The measurement should be as
follows:
GM Turbo-Hydramatic 4L60 1 1/8"
from Bell housing to Pads
GM Turbo-Hydramatic 4L60E 1 1/8"
from Bell housing to Pads
GM Turbo-Hydramatic 4L80E 1 1/8"
from Bell housing to Pads
GM Turbo-Hydramatic 350 1 1/8"
from Bell housing to Pads
GM Turbo-Hydramatic 400 1 3/16"
from Bell housing to Pads
GM Powerglide 1 1/8"
from Bell housing to Pads
Ford C-6 1 1/8"
from Bell housing to Pads
Ford C-4 1 1/8"
from Bell housing to Pads
Ford AOD & AODE 1 1/8"
from Bell housing to Pads
Chrysler Torqueflite 727 1 ¼" from
Bell housing to Ring gear (NOT PADS)
Note: Distance may vary either
way .050".
Should I replace the
front seal and bushing in my transmission before installing the new TCI® converter I just purchased?
Answer:
Yes. You should inspect the old converter you are removing for damage to
the converter hub that rides in the pump of the transmission. If you find
any wear on the hub at all, you should replace both seal and bushing. If
you find no wear at all, you may be fine with just a seal replacement. You
should at least do one (seal) if not both. (seal & bushing)
Should the brake lines
for the TCI® "Roll Stop" be installed in the firewall side or the
wheel cylinder side of the proportioning block on later model vehicles?
Answer:
Brake lines for the TCI® "Roll Stop" should be installed on the
wheel cylinder side of the proportioning block.
What does the term
"Lock-Up" mean?
Answer:
This term refers to a converter that contains an internal lock-up piston
or device, either friction or mechanical. Transmissions such as TH350C,
2004R, 4L60 (700R4), 4L60E, 4L80E, AOD, AODE/4R70W and others, use
these methods of eliminating slippage for an increase in fuel economy.
Older transmissions such as the TH400, TH350, C6, C4 and others did not
incorporate these methods of lock-up. The only way to increase fuel
efficiency in these types of converters is to change clearances, redirect
fin angles and usually lower the actual stall speed.
What about the
Lock-Up feature in the overdrive units that TCI® offers? Doesn't my vehicle
need an onboard computer (ECM) to work these newer transmissions?
Answer:
No. The Ford AOD & GM 2004R/700R4 transmissions themselves are
controlled by the internal governor and the TV (Throttle Valve) system.
The lock-up mechanism in the Ford AOD transmission is entirely mechanical.
The advantage to the AOD is that it operates automatically without any outside
controls. This makes for an easy swap for an older Ford automatic behind
non-ECM controlled small block engines. The only disadvantage is that
there is no way to turn off the lock-up system.
The GM transmissions are connected to the
ECM to run the torque converter clutch (TCC). TCI® has developed a
universal lock-up system (Part #376600) that allows the TCC to be
controlled automatically using a valve body pressure switch and an engine
vacuum switch. 700R4 and 2004R transmissions equipped with this system can
be used in any vehicle, whether it has an ECM or not. The system also
allows manual control to override the automatic functions so that the TCC
can be turned on in second and third gear or shut off altogether.
What is the difference
in the terms "Flash Stall" and "Foot-Brake Stall"?
Answer: Of the two measurements of stall, 'Flash Stall' is the most
accurate. Foot-Brake stall is dependant upon too many variables. (i.e.
type of braking system, disc or drum brakes, how well adjusted the brake
system is, ring and pinion ratios effect foot-brake stall more
dramatically, idle characteristics of engine, cam installation for low end
torque as needed by automatic transmission.)
Flash Stall can be determined a couple of
different ways:
With the vehicle sitting still and
idling in low gear, apply full throttle. As the vehicle begins its
motion forward, notice the RPM hand on the tachometer. That is your
Flash Stall. (Engine should be very responsive from idle. If not,
camshaft timing and/or carburetor adjustments may need to be made in
order for engine to be crisp from idle.)
With the vehicle in forward motion in
high or drive gear and at its lowest mph where it will not kick back
to a lower gear, apply full throttle while noticing rpm hand of
tachometer. (This measurement of flash stall is best achieved with
a full manual transmission.)
What does the vacuum
modulator do?
Answer: The vacuum modulator is a
canister that contains a diaphragm and a calibrated spring. The diaphragm
senses changes in engine vacuum due to throttle position/load changes and
transfers the diaphragm motion to the modulator valve in the transmission.
The calibrated spring opposes the diaphragm movement. This provides the
means for the transmission to adjust internal pressures based upon torque
demand by the engine.
Is there a
right way or a wrong way to hook up my vacuum modulator?
Answer: Since the transmission is
so dependent upon the modulator to function properly, a good vacuum signal
must be transferred from the intake manifold down to the modulator. The
best way to insure this is to utilize hard steel line to carry the vacuum
signal with approximately three inches (maximum) of rubber hose on each
end for the connections. This setup will prevent the hose from cracking or
burning in areas that are close to the exhaust system and will also reduce
the chances of the hose collapsing onto itself. Most modulators require a
minimum of 15 inches of Hg (Mercury) at idle to function properly.
Are there any
adjustments that can be made to the modulator?
Answer: Stock factory modulators
are pre-set and most are sealed. TCI® StreetFighter® modulator-type
transmissions are all equipped with adjustable modulators. By turning the
adjusting screw (found in the vacuum nipple) counterclockwise, you will
lower the spring pre-load. This will cause earlier shifts. By turning the
adjusting screw clockwise and raising the spring pre-load, the shift
points will go up. The range of adjustability is only a few mph either
way.
Please DO
NOT hesitate to call TCI® at (662) 224-8972 or E-mail
us if you have any additional questions.
